Set out true, laid to last
Herringbone & chevron floor fitting
Herringbone and chevron are unforgiving patterns. If the centre line is out by a few millimetres at the start, the error compounds across the room and shows against every wall. We set out from the centre, dry-lay before fixing, and cut the perimeter last.
01. Set out from the centre
02. Solid or engineered
A pattern that shows every mistake
Chevron is cut at an angle so the blocks meet in a continuous V; herringbone is cut square and interlocks at 90 degrees. Chevron costs more because every block is mitred, and there is no hiding a bad cut.
Over underfloor heating we fit engineered blocks, glued down. Solid blocks move too much with the heat cycle and will gap.
Set out from a centre line
Sanded flat, then sealed
How we fit a herringbone floor
Survey and moisture test, then acclimatise the blocks in the room for five to seven days. Level the subfloor, set out the centre line, dry-lay a section to check the pattern against the room, then glue down working outward. Perimeter and border cut last, then sanded flat and finished.
Subfloor levelled and prepared
Blocks acclimatise in the room for five to seven days while the subfloor is levelled, moisture-tested and sealed. Herringbone shows every hollow, so this stage decides the finish.
Set out from the centre line
A centre line is struck and a section dry-laid to check the pattern against the room, so the blocks meet the walls evenly. Then they are glued down, working outward.
Perimeter cut, sanded and sealed
Borders and perimeter cuts go in last. The whole floor is then sanded flat across the pattern and finished in hardwax oil or lacquer.
Get a price for your herringbone floor
